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7 (2014)
Tunnelling Towards Hope


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28 February - 6 March 2014

Ukraine History

A Stronghold of Rulers and Rebels

With the recent death toll jumping to nearly 100 and 1,000 injured, Hrushevskoho Street, one of the strongholds of EuroMaidans three-month-long protests, made headlines around the globe. It was here, on 19 January the countrys stand against government corruption, abuse of power, and the violation of human rights turned from peaceful protest to all-out revolution. Having witnessed much over the years, Hrushevskoho is a street with a history, and not only care of recent days.

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Ukraine Today
Acelebrity using their status and intelligence to influence public views and opinion is rarely seen in modern society, even less so in Ukraine. Here, the majority of celebs use their time, effort, and money to enhance or further their career rather than put their name to something that can do good for others. However, as EuroMaidan intensifies, some are making themselves heard and they fall either side of the EuroMaidan divide.
It used to be that when rebellion and revolution occurred, the intellectual, creative, and spiritual elite would be front and centre.

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Ukrainian Culture

When Walls Can Talk

People have been writing on walls since the dawn of civilisation, we call it graffiti, and ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings. Sometimes it is merely the creator wanting to leave his or her mark; sometimes there is an underlying social or political reason. And it is due to the latter that graffiti has exploded across Kyiv in recent months. Anti dictator messages aside, we peel back a few layers of paint to look at graffiti in the city in general.

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Ukraine Travel
Winter in Ukraine is now in full swing and it cant be enjoyed fully with a visit to a ski resort. Thats what I did over the holidays in a bid to escape the dreary cold concrete jungle of Kyiv, and swap it for a snow-covered winter wonderland. Despite being relatively young, just a little over a decade old, Bukovel is known as one of the most famous and ultramodern ski resorts in Ukraine. Join as Whats On hits the slopes.

If youve got the big city blues after a relaxing summer holiday on a deserted beach the perfect antidote lies in southern Ukraine on the Kherson oblast steppe for centuries one of Europes last wild frontiers. No longer the domain of Cossacks and slave-raiding Tatars, today this remote region plays host to one of Ukraines most naturally stunning nature reserves, Askania Nova, where you can find everything from wild horses to buffalo!

In the time of Kievan Rus, Chernihiv was a heavyweight. The capital of the most northern region in Ukraine no longer shares equal billing with the countrys more prominent cities, however it is possibly because of this it retains many early medieval monuments and an air of laid-back provincial charm. And what goes better with a casual atmosphere, and summer, than beer? The locally brewed Chernigivske is popular right across Ukraine. Whats On visits the city of beer and churches.

Location, location, location is a mantra in the world of real estate and when the ancient Greeks sought to colonise what is now Crimea they couldnt have picked a better place. Founded about 2,500 years ago, Chersonesus, is Crimeas largest and most intact Greek ruins: stretching from the Black Sea to the outer suburbs of the city of Sevastopol, here you can combine a stroll amidst intact temples with a swim, or even a dive in search of treasure. Whats On looks at the recently named world heritage site.

Despite the illustrious history of the Cossacks, few artefacts of the Ukrainian hetmans survived to our time, and those relics that did endure are in museums and private collections outside of this country. Similarly, almost all architectural heritage is gone destroyed by Soviet decossackisation, war or simply neglect. There is one palace, however, that can foot it with some of the worlds greats the Hetman Palace of Count Kyrylo Grygorovych Rozumovskiy.

There is a town not far from Kyiv thats name is literally translated as a happy thought. Whats On takes a trip to Radomyshl, a historic city in the Zhytomyr oblast of northern Ukraine, to see if it lives up to its name end up and finding a tranquil corner of the country that indeed will leave you with happy thoughts!

About an hours drive out of Kyiv, through the town of Yahotyn, upon a dirt road that features simple weekend housing to the right and a pasture of horses, cows, goats and chickens to the left, you will come across the Cossacks Outpost. Stop for the day, the night, the whole weekend and return to life on Monday, rested, well fed, if maybe a little sore.

Legend has it when Turkish Sultan Osman arrived to conquer Kamyanets-Podilsky in 1621, he asked one of his generals, Who has built such a mighty town? Allah, came the reply, to which the Sultan responded, Then let Allah himself conquer it, and bid a hasty retreat.
Kamyanets-Podilsky remains one of Ukraines most arresting sights and has always been a popular tourist destination thanks to its 11th-century old town surrounded by a canyon carved by the river Smotrych. The canyon is 40 to 50 metres deep, and leaves the town standing clearly apart on a tall, sheer-walled rock island. Whats On explores the city.

Easter eggs are a widely popular symbol of new life across most of the world, but forget the chocolate version, in Ukraine its high-art. The Ukrainian pysanka is created using a wax resist process to create intricate, brilliantly coloured eggs. As the traditional May holidays and Orthodox Easter are fast approaching, we suggest you plan to visit a lesser known Ukrainian town Kolomyia...especially at Easter.

Shhhh... Listen... Can you hear that? That is the energy that fuels this country. Its not gas, its a different kind of energy, and you dont have to go far to experience it. All you have to do is follow the Cobblestone Freeway.
Ukraine is a country with much to offer, from long-standing cultural traditions to incredible landscapes to adventure-packed days of fun in the sun.


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Ukraine Truth
Rights We Didnt Know We Had

Throughout EuroMaidan much has been made of Ukrainians making a stand for their rights. What exactly those rights are were never clearly defined. Ukraine ratified the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in 1952. The first article of the Declaration states all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights, they are endowed with reason and conscience, and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. The ousted and overthrown Ukrainian government showed to the world they dont understand the meaning of these words.


Kyiv Culture

Pulling Strings
Located on Hrushevskoho Street the epicentre of EuroMaidan violence, home to battles, blazes and barricades childrens favourite the Academic Puppet Theatre had to shut down in February. Nevertheless, it is getting ready to reopen this March with a renewed repertoire to bring some laughter back to a scene of tragedy. Operating (not manipulating) puppets is a subtle art that can make kids laugh and adults cry. Whats On meets Mykola Petrenko, art director of the Theatre, to learn more about those who pull the strings behind the show.

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